The Cascades were spectacular. The Coastal mountains – amazing. I found myself staring with a sense of wonder about all that was around me on more occasions than I can count. The beauty that I found myself immersed in was beyond my own ability to imagine as recently as 3 weeks ago.
And then, yesterday, I began the journey from Golden, BC to Jasper, AB.
I may never be the same again.
Golden is a beautiful place. Nestled in the Rocky Mountain Trench and surrounded by the Robson Valley, the Columbia Valley and the East Kootenay Valley, it is a small community that realizes it is a jewel, yet does not go out of it’s way to advertise that fact. Still a peaceful spot, it is a vagabond-campers paradise – largely due to the number of free, BC Hydro and Forestry Services sponsored campsites. Well maintained and frequented only by hardy, back-country style campers, these spots are generally virtually unpopulated. I never had more than 2 other campers in any of the BC Hydro sites that I used.
I really was in no hurry to leave this little spot in Golden, BC. The weather was the nicest I have experienced thus far, and the setting could not be more peaceful. Add to that the fact that there was a pretty major rockslide just 12 kilometres to the east of Golden that had closed the TransCanada in both directions and it was becoming easy to convince myself to just settle in for another day. Or two.
But like any mistress, the open road calls. And a man’s gotta’ answer, right?
I took my time packing up my site, as always being sure to leave no trace that I had ever visited, and made my way to the local Tim Horton’s for a pre-ride coffee. By the time I was ready to go, a group of riders coming in from Texas and on their way to Alaska for the D2D Rally informed me that the highway was open once again, with the east lanes still closed and buried in debris and traffic diverted to the west bound lanes for travel in both directions.
I headed out, sans-raingear and full of good spirit to enjoy a day of riding in the sunshine. And what a day it was.
I started this post with a commentary on some of the mountain ranges that I have travelled and enjoyed.
Yesterday I began to enter the Rockies – I mean, really enter the Rockies – for the first time.
Words like spectacular – gorgeous – amazing – awe inspiring – god-given – all of these try to give description to the grandeur that is the Canadian Rocky Mountains. And all fall short.
You really do have to see them to believe it.
I rode from Golden on through Kicking Horse Pass and up through the Rockies to Lake Louise. The scenes that I was given have been captured, as best I could, on still and GoPro footage. The stills are linked below. The GoPro footage will be up sometime in mid-July and I will link to it then. The video footage is definitely worth a watch.
From Lake Louise I decided to toss convention to the side (like I have ever adhered to convention) and opted to take a 234 kilometre side trip up to Jasper. Which is where I sit as I type this.
I may never leave Jasper.
I could live in the bush. Eat berries and nuts. Adopt a mountain goat for company.
Mountain goats on the way to Jasper.
Okay. Maybe not. My older brother pointed out that the aforementioned diet would leave me being a tasty bear-munchie.
It sure would be easy to stay though. At least until the snow flies. And then,….
On my way from Lake Louise to Jasper, I stopped for fuel at Saskatchewan Crossing ($1.75/litre) and met another long-distance traveller. Also named Joe, this fella is from Titusville Florida and is doing the southern most to northern most ride. He started out at the Florida Keys, mile marker 0 – and is riding all the way to Alaska.
We decided to ride together from Saskatchewan Crossing to Jasper, and shared a campsite at Whistlers in Jasper National Park. Joe worked as a subcontractor for NASA for 30 odd years and is enjoying his retirement on a BMW RS1200 – travelling long distance in style.
Very similar in riding style and pace, we got along just fine, and it was nice to share another portion of this epic journey with yet another vagabond rider.
So now, it is time for me to prepare to leave Jasper. I think I will extend my stay long enough to ride the gondola to the top of the mountain, then build up my resolve and hit the road. Sadly, that means that I am leaving the Rockies today.
I am certain of 2 things. One, that I will return to this mountain paradise again quite soon – maybe even next year. And two – that my entire adventure will take place here.
In the Canadian Rocky Mountains of Alberta.
Paradise Found.
Scenes from Golden to Jasper, including the Icefields Parkway, are located HERE.
I can't say about the rest but having travelled most of the roads you talk about, seen most of the scenes you describe and experienced nature as you have, it brings it all back as real as it was then! So again thank you for your adventure but also for your writing abilities. Oh is that sunshine I see on your tent??? Joe
ReplyDeleteI appreciate the kind words - and yes, that most certainly is sunshine on my tent - the weather improved wonderfully in the Rockies and stayed nice all the way to Regina, which is where I am now. A little rain today, but home is only 30 riding-hours away.
ReplyDeleteThanks for riding along,
Joe